We’ve already introduced you to the notion that the entire
Mediterranean region is olive country and that the primary
fat in the Mediterranean diet is olive oil. Olive trees with
their fruits burgeoning with oil virtually rim the Mediter
ranean
Sea. When
ripe, the olives are mashed into a paste
and
pressed between mats, squeezing the cherished oils into
vats
below.
The
process is simple, and the first pressing of
the
olives yields the olive oil that is the most pure, the most
nutrient-rich,
and the most flavorful: extra virgin
olive oil.
Extra
virgin
olive oil is the least processed olive oil.
Depending on the region where the olives were grown,
olive oil varies in color, from gold to green. According to
Nancy Harmon Jenkins in her Mediterranean Diet Cook
book:
[The] strong-flavored, green-tasting Tuscan oils are
very different themselves from the lighter, rounder, fat
-
ter oils from Apulia in Italy’s South. Which again are
distinctive from the oils of Catalonia with their hints
of almond and the richer, full-bodied oils from Greece
and farther east in Lebanon and the bland, sweet oils
from North Africa.
Although strongly (and deliciously) flavored, olive oil is
more versatile than some strongly flavored oils because its strong flavor diminishes or disappears when heated. It can,
therefore, be used with great success in baking. Lesser
grades of olive oil are progressively more processed and re
fined.
Their
slightly cheaper prices are not worth the loss of
flavor
and the benefits of other substances in the oil, not to
mention
the added undesirable effects
of processing. (Keep
olive
oil out of the light and refrigerate any oil you won’t
use
in one month.)
Although not a component in traditional Mediterranean
cuisine, a good olive oil substitute is canola oil, another rich
source of monounsaturated fatty acids. Canola oil, some
times
called rapeseed oil, contains a large
proportion of monounsaturated
fatty acids, like olive oil, as well as vitamin E
and
omega-3 fatty acids. Although
it costs less than its
Mediterranean
cousin, it is also far more refined, less flavor
ful,
and less widely consumed, historically.
Canola oil is
also
devoid of phytochemicals (nonnutritive substances in
plants
that appear to offer
protective health effects),
those
extra
“goodies” available in olive oil that has been cold
pressed.
In terms of a heart-healthy choice, however,
it still
ranks
just below olive oil.
During the time when Ancel Keys was conducting his research,
some Mediterranean countries consumed greater or
lesser
amounts of olive oil. Remember how Cretans were
found
by Keys to be the olive oil heavyweights, consuming
an
average of about a half cup of olive oil per day per per
son?
A
full
one-third of the calories in the Cretan diet came
from olive oil. The Greek population in general received
about one-fifth of its calories from olive oil. Elsewhere
throughout the Mediterranean, olive oil consumption was
not quite up to Cretan standards, but still far exceeded con
sumption
in the United States. According
to Keys, average
olive
oil consumption throughout the Mediterranean region
equaled
about 15 to 20 percent of total calories, “except in
the
most northerly part of Italy and the non-Mediterranean
parts
of France and Spain.”
Coronary heart disease rates in these countries, as we
have mentioned before, were (and still are, although not as
dramatically) lower than in the United States, and although
olive oil is not the only factor, researchers have narrowed
the field enough to surmise that a high proportion of mo
nounsaturated
fatty acids in the diet is likely a significant
factor
in lower coronary heart disease rates.
But olive oil is healthy for more reasons than the monounsaturated
fatty acids that lower the risk of coronary heart
disease.
As
mentioned, olive oil contains phytochemicals,
more
specifically carotenoids, that give vegetables and their
oils
color,
and the antioxidant vitamin E. Antioxidants
in
hibit
the formation of free radicals, elements produced in the
body
by pollutants and human metabolism that appear to
damage
the immune system and may contribute to chronic
disease.
Remember how oxidized LDL leads
to hardened
and
clogged arteries? Vitamin
E helps to further prevent
LDL
from
oxidizing (antioxidants are explained in more de
tail
in the next chapter).
Again, when it comes to fat, moderation is the key. Focus
on consuming a healthy proportion of monounsaturated fats
compared to saturated and polyunsaturated fats. Use the
Mediterranean Diet Pyramid to help change your diet to re
flect
the eating patterns and fat consumption of the traditional
Mediterranean diet. Overall, fat consumption was
moderate,
and olive oil was certainly the fat of choice. Olive
oil
infused the cuisine of the Mediterranean with its rich
aroma and its health-bestowing properties. It was (and still
is) a culinary star—but not the only star in a richly varied,
heart-healthy, Mediterranean-inspired diet.